Page 9 - May1990

MAY I99O NATNON,\N, tsUtIIION BUN,N,ETNN 55

BUTTONS WORN ON CHINESE JACKETS
Iane Ford Adams
The buttons pictured here came from China. They are of a kind used in China to
fasten the jackets traditionally worn by both men and women.
Broadly described, they are small, modified ball-shaped, yellow metal buttons,
heavy for their size. The designs are remindful of Chinese carvings, the subjects being
conventionalized flowers, foliage, birds, butterflies and fish, together with abstract
ornamentation. The shank is distinctive in shape for it is a loop made of metal
"ribbon," or flat wire. The loop is carried by a conical piece that attaches to the
underside of the ball.
To give some particulars: The diameter of the balls ranges from under three-
eighths inch to over one-half inch. The modifications include compression and
elongation as well as ridges and declivities. The yellow metal most often used has the
color of fine gilt. However brassy tones are not uncommon. A tiny minority are made
of genuine gold. None are known of silver or other white metals.
comparison of several buttons from the same set shows that they differ from each
other in detail as only handwork can. Incidentally, the regular sets offive used to turn
up frequently in California where so many Chinese lived, where countless U.S. Navy
men returned from the Far East treasure laden, and where until l94l Chinese
merchants ran stores well stocked with all kinds of Oriental goods, including clothing
and costume accessories.
But back to a description of the buttons. Since I know nothing about metal
handicraft, let alone anything about Chinese techniques, the most I can do is tell how

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the products look. One typical and very handsome variety looks as if the artist had
begun with a hollow sphere ofthick metal, a pattern and a tool like an engraver's burr.
By chipping away at the metal, the design was made to stand in relief, tool marks
(usualvfine lines, sometimes dots) cover the depressed portions. As with Golden Age
buttons, the raised parts may be smooth or they may be chased.
Many designs are stylized beyond recognition. It may be uncertain whether the
object pittured is a duck, a fish, or a bit of foliage! However, flower-heads are plentiful
and unmistakable. There are five-petalled ones and lilyJike ones.