Page 13 - May1990

MAY I99O NATNONAT tsUIITON tsUttETNN 59

Row 2:
1. Embossed and painted paper under glass
2. Breeches bul ton, crystal backed by redfoil and black paper, design of twisted gold
wires, set in silver.
3. Porcelain, basketweave top, hollow withfour holes on back
Row 3:
I. Pink agate with gilt rim and pinshank
2. Tombac sporting button, cone shank
3. FrenchRevolutionarysoldierwithcannonpaintedonopalinelikeglass,borderof
twisted wires and seed pearls on dark blue glass, all under glass.
4. Crest, silver
5. Copper colonial with punched silvered center design.
Row 4:
I. Rose painted on ivory under glass
2. Scene painted on paper under glass, gold plated rim and back
3. Wedgwood, copper rim and back
4. Brass, wedge shank
5. Butterfly, reverse painting
Row 5:
l. Bird offeathers, mosses, wax background, under glass
2. Opaline glass and pastes set in white metal
3. Painted enamel with one piece silver back and rim
4. Rebus on pearl
5. Fabric
Row 6:
L Reverse painting in dark sepia shades set on copper colonial.
2. Wood back with stamped copper cap, cord shank
3. Oil painting with eglomise border, under glass.
Row 7:
I. Enamel with transparent and opaque colored enamels over goldfoil, silver rtm.
2. Grisaille painting on paper, steel beaded border

BADGES OF RANK
by Wilda Gould
One important part of learning about buttons is to learn what is NOT a button. We
just can't call every object that comes our way a button, and badges cannot be called
buttons. The word "button" has frequently been applied to the Mandarin hat badges,
worn by high ranking Chinese officials, at the apex of their hats. These badges really
bear no resemblance at all to buttons. The glass ball itself more nearly resembles a
large bead. Those with the glass balls are those from the later years, and the only type
that we are at all likely to see. The very early ones ornamented with precious jewels
have, no doubt, found their way into museums, and private collections.
Almost all of the Chinese insignia and accessories of rank during the Ch'ing
dynasty (1644-19ll) consisted of different kinds of jeweled ornaments. Now, these
handsome hat badges which once marked the rank and prestige of high nobles and
officials, have taken on new meaning as prized items for modern collectors. However,
if we are lucky enough to find any of these items we will have to settle for the ball type,
and some of these are truly beautiful, even without the jewels.
Throughout Chinese recorded history, for nearly 3,000 years, the rank of nobles
and officials had been indicated by the form and shape oftheir ceremonial hats. For a
dignitary to appear in public without his hat was considered as an extreme disgrace,