Page 15 - May1990

uev rqqo NATn0N,\n tsUTll0N BUn LETIN or

and the military mandarins wore robes adorned with wild animals.
Although Mandarin hat badges are not buttons they are fascinating and desirable
collectibles-if you can find them. Those most commonly found have clear glass balls.
All the balls are not round, some are slightly elongated. The height of the badges is
about 2 inches, but this varied. The manner of decoration varies also. Some are made
to be sewn on the hat, others have a brass plate which can be slipped into an opening at
the top of the hat. Then the screw is tightened to hold it firmly.
There is also variation in the number of parts each has. Those with the colored balls
(or beads) are the most elusive, and most desirable. I can lay claim so far to only one
badge, this one with a clear ball, but it is indeed a work of art. Mine is composed of 5
pleces.
No. I -This is a flat round base of brass, about the size of a quarter. Attached to the
center ofthis is a hollow metal rod. It stands in an upright position, and is threaded
both outside and inside. All the other parts screw either over it, or into it.
No. 2-Next is the dome of white metal, with many knobs, and very fine filigree
around each knob.
No. 3-This is a smaller cup shaped piece which rests on the dome, and decorated in
the same manner.
No. 4-The glass bead-like ball rests in the cup. The diameter of the ball is about I and
one eighth inch.
No. 5-A long screw, with a small metal medallion at the top. The medallion has many
tiny knobs, each surrounded with filigree. The long screw goes down into the center
rod and holds the whole thing firmly together. When the screw is tightened the base
(No.l) is drawn up even with the base of the dome. The round base of No. I can (if
desired) be slipped under the opening of the hat at the apex, and the tightening of
the screws then holds the badge firmly in place on the hat.
The filigree work on these badges can be appreciated only by using a magnifier.
Truly a thing of beauty, and ajoy forever!
Sources: HOBBIES MAGAZINEfoT Julv 1954-Article by Schuvler Cammann "Old
Chinese Badges of Rank"
Various encyclopedias
My own observations

A mandarin hat on which the hat badge
was worn-from the collection of Lucille
Weingarten.
Editor's Note.' Perhaps the reason that many collectors call the Mandarin Hat Badges
buttons is because three articles in Just Buttons called them buttons. The National
Button Society has not accepted these as buttons and they cannot be entered in
competition at our shows. The articles in Just Buttons can be found in the May 1947,
April 1948, and April 1973 issues. The article "Mandarin Buttons" by Elura Lane in
the April I 973 issue is particularly good in that it gives the significance of the various
colors by rank. They are: (l) Ruby (worn only by royal family); (2) Coral Red; (3)
Sapphine or Clear Blue; (4) Opaque Dark Purple; (5) Clear Crystal; (6) Opaque Glass
or Jadestone; (7) Chased or engraved gold metal; (8) Plain Gold; and (9) Silver. (See
color pages for more pictures.)