Page 39 - October1997

October 1997 NNIONAL BUTTON BULLETIN 221

the possibilities which they exploited. To break down the potentialities of variety, it
must be noted: first, that five different types of metal otnaments were used: second
that each type could be, and frequently was, used on buttons of several different
shapes (in one case on better than twenty distinct shapes); and, third, that each shape
was likely further to be varied by the addition of overlay trim in assorted
designs-bands, dots or swirls. Add the complicating fact that some of these shapes
were turned out as paperweights and as sheath overlay, as well as in solid-color
bodies, and multiply all of the above factors by the number of color variations and
combinations which may be-and are-found, and the "possibilities" of the class
present a considerable problem in mathematics.
For the following attempt at a systematic exploration of these possibilities, the
metal omaments themselves provide the obvious point of departure. The five types
of ornaments used on these buttons, are: (a) Plain Tip; (b) Fancy Tip; (c)
Beaded-or Pebbled-Circlet; (d) Twisted Wire; and (e) Pictorial Ornament.
Under each of these five groups, the different shapes are considered individually,
with particular reference to the patterns of overlay trim and to color combinations
which have been found. Findings as to structure of bodies, backs and shanks-and
size ranges are noted where they seem pertinent, both in connection with the whole
groups and with individual shapes.
An over-all comment on size might here be in order. With the rarest of
exceptions, buttons with embedded yellow metal trim are small in the terms of
N.B.S. classification, that is, they are larger than 3/8 of an inch in diameter and
smaller than 3/4. Within this range, one group at least, that with twisted wire trim,
shows considerable variation, while others may vary only insignificantly from a
norm. These buttons, however, cannot be made to fit into any graduated series of
"sizes" as if they were ladies' nylons or mens' collar bands. On that score this
tabulator can speak with conviction, for he tried measuring scores of the
maddeningly roly-poly little objects, only to conclude that that way lay the booby
hatch. Variations down to the smallest measurable fraction of an inch were to be
found, and even so there were "smalls" and "larges" within each fraction. The truth
of the matter is that no standardization was required at the time of manufacture, nor
would such standardization have been possible under the conditions ofmanufacture.
Plain Tip. In some button literature, this is termed a "pinhead" or "nailhead".
This designation tends to be misleading, for it suggests the terminal of a pin shank,
and this the omament most definitely is not. It is, in fact, simply a small smooth ball
or pellet of yellow metal pressed into the apex of the button, with no connection
whatsoever with the shank. It is used with a surprising number of different button
molds, or shapes. More than twenty such shapes have come under observation, and
others doubtless have escaped detection to date. The twenty-two already studied are
pictured and described here, beginning with the simplest form and progressing to the
most elaborate. The great majority of these buttons, (all, indeed, not otherwise so
designated) show the familiar swirl back and wire loop shank. Two other types of
shanks, the "pigtail" and one with a small shank plate, are, however, to be found
within the group, and are noted in context. The size range of the group is
comparatively narrow, running from | 3132 of an inch to 17132 of an inch in
diameter.